Window Motor Replication

[patmac]

Hi mate,

Im not sure if I confused you, I can get it to run off pretty much nothing (doesnt register on the gauge, its well below 100ma) but it doesnt have max torque at this setting. However, the best torque/speed isnt far from this. Currently the best results I have got is 36v 500-600ma @ 1100rpm and charging 36v battery bank on the back end. Something interesting to note is that if the front end is higher in voltage than the back end the charging goes through the roof. I have only tried this on 24/12v which is a big difference I know, I reckon it would be ideal for the front end to be 1 or 2v higher than the backend. Regardless, it charges good as is, with no cap or SCR, I'll try those soon.

I still cant offer any comments on actual torque figures. I havent been able to make any scientific measurements. I am happy with the circuit now, and I will just be cleaning it up a little and adding some switches etc. And maybe some extra extra safety precautions for the rotor.

I will say this. 20kg of rotor spinning over 1000rpm is kinda scary No other mechanical difficulties so far with the new strapping, but I still get scared. Just to note. The video of it running on 36v 1amp was around 750rpm. With the tweaks and extra power windings it is over 1000rpm for 5/600ma. Amp draw @ startup is over 7 amps, and it rockets back to under an amp as it speeds up.

I still have some cleaning up to do, but Id love to try the induction motor/generator connected that you suggested. What sort of motor would you suggest? Is a fan the right type of motor? Or perhaps like the motor out of a bench grinder? The rpms for this may be a little hard to match however.


I'll make a new video soon.


S

ren

Have you schematics and plans for a G-FIELD generator or Energizer?

[tjnlsn255]

Why not a car alternator maybe even with the permanent magnet rotor.... like they use for wind turbines....

or short out the rotor windings of the alternator and it is an induction motor, right?

Are you windings in parallel to each other or did you twist groups of them together before winding the coil?

Don't you have it multi-filer already?

I like this video on youtube.... lots of very interesting possibilities for combining with a window motor......I think.....

YouTube - Overunity Generator Pulse Motor type 2

theDaftman has great videos.....

Are you we having fun yet......

Be happy....

Todd

Hi mate,

Im not sure if I confused you, I can get it to run off pretty much nothing (doesnt register on the gauge, its well below 100ma) but it doesnt have max torque at this setting. However, the best torque/speed isnt far from this. Currently the best results I have got is 36v 500-600ma @ 1100rpm and charging 36v battery bank on the back end. Something interesting to note is that if the front end is higher in voltage than the back end the charging goes through the roof. I have only tried this on 24/12v which is a big difference I know, I reckon it would be ideal for the front end to be 1 or 2v higher than the backend. Regardless, it charges good as is, with no cap or SCR, I'll try those soon.

I still cant offer any comments on actual torque figures. I havent been able to make any scientific measurements. I am happy with the circuit now, and I will just be cleaning it up a little and adding some switches etc. And maybe some extra extra safety precautions for the rotor.

I will say this. 20kg of rotor spinning over 1000rpm is kinda scary No other mechanical difficulties so far with the new strapping, but I still get scared. Just to note. The video of it running on 36v 1amp was around 750rpm. With the tweaks and extra power windings it is over 1000rpm for 5/600ma. Amp draw @ startup is over 7 amps, and it rockets back to under an amp as it speeds up.

I still have some cleaning up to do, but Id love to try the induction motor/generator connected that you suggested. What sort of motor would you suggest? Is a fan the right type of motor? Or perhaps like the motor out of a bench grinder? The rpms for this may be a little hard to match however.


I'll make a new video soon.


S

[ren]

Hi guys, thanks for the replies.

In regards to safety, I am confident that it can handle the speeds it is going. I thought of fibreglass wrapping, I used to do a bit of glassing, But the tape I have used and the glue should hold well. It scares me because I originally threw a magnet when there was no tape and nearly wrecked the whole thing before I even really got to play with it!

I guess its just the time and $$$$ spent.....anyways, shes pretty sturdy now, up to 36v. Im not sure on anything past that yet, I dont have enough batteries.


I dont have any plans for a G-Field or Energizer, I have some ideas though. I will try anything I can get my hands on, though car alternator will probably be no good unless geared correctly. They start working @ about 3k I think. Ive stuck to Bedinis principles so far and they've paid off so I think eventually I will build an energizer for it of some sort. Who knows.

All windings are wound together, there is no twisting (except for the last 10cm). They are all parallel wired to the collectors now, so five power windings.

[rickoff]

Re: Induction motor

Hi Ren,

An induction motor is quickly recognized for the fact that it does not have a commutator or brushes. Induction motors are pretty much the standard for industrial electric motors, and also for major household appliances that use motors (washers, dryers, dishwashers, etc.). Fans, as you suggested, are often built with induction motors. Most all IM's have a label tag that states the AC voltage, the horsepower, and the rated rpm's. Take a look at my pevious post concerning rpm's, and look for a motor with the lower rpm rating, as it will be easier to drive to speed of course.

Rick

[ren]

Thanks mate I'll do some browsing. This fan I have here has 230/40 volts AC only, 75 watt, but doesnt state rpm.

[Tecstatic]

AC induction motor speed

The induction motors commonly are either 1800 or 3600 rpm "synchronous" speed.

To make the induction motor act as a generator you need slip, the more slip the more power until it "stalls", so you have to rotate at 1800+ rpm.

Have you calculated the circumference speed of the rotor and considered what happens if you get hit in the head by a magnet ?

Maybe it is best to calculate the stress of your tape, and what it can stand. Especially if you want to run 1800+ rpm. Double speed, 4 times the stress on the tape. Better safe than sorry...

If the motor looses a magnet at that speed, the imbalance will make it jump around, and maybe even break apart.

I have not the exact measures of the rotor, and this is just an approximate calculation assuming the rotor diameter is 20 cm:

omega = 2*pi*f = 2*3.14*1800/60 = 184,2 rad/s
v = omega * r = 184.2 * 0.1 = 18,42 m/s
a = omega2 * r = (184.2)2 * 0.1 = 3393 m/s2, approx. 339 G's

By applying the weight of the magnets and using the force parallelogram, you get the tape tension.

Eric

[ren]

Hi Eric.

Your points on safety are noted. I have already had a magnet come loose at 800rpm, that was without proper strapping.

Perhaps I will make extra certain and wrap with fibreglass as well. I dont go blasting it at 36 volts all day long, I would have done it maybe three times, to see if everything held.

[ren]

some pics with the strapping removed, preparing for fiberglass.

[gmeat]

some pics with the strapping removed, preparing for fiberglass.

Hi Ren,


I see you have some Caps in those photos.How are you utilizing them and what size are they?.Also,are those neos or not.Thx for the input .


-Gary

[ren]

Hi Gary, the two on the front end are 40v 10000uF caps paralleled for 20000uF. They are over the front ends terminals. The back end is the 10uF 250v cap, which is marked on the schematic as External Cemf load I think. You could have different variations on the back to this if you like.

[gmeat]

Hi Gary, the two on the front end are 40v 10000uF caps paralleled for 20000uF. They are over the front ends terminals. The back end is the 10uF 250v cap, which is marked on the schematic as External Cemf load I think. You could have different variations on the back to this if you like.

Ren,


How much of a difference are you seeing with the caps on the front end with regard to amp draw?.Also,on a side note,I'm a little confused about the SCR you used in a different thread where you were back-popping a battery.Was that a silicon controlled rectifier or a thyristor.A part # would would help me to better understand.Thx for the input


-Gary

[ren]

The caps on the front will vary. When I was experimenting with pulsing out of phase I saw the same voltage in the caps that was in the battery at some stages/setups. Mostly it is .05-.10 below voltage source.

The back end will stay at the level of the charging source, unless, some form of capacitive discharge system is employed. For now I have it set up straight off the bridge, with no capacitive discharge employed.

I havent used any thyristors so the part you are reffering to is a SCR. I picked a high voltage high amperage one (800v 16A) but I have used medium sized ones as well. The large one is TYN816, but almost any one should work. Perhaps if you have a choice a fast switching one could be a good idea. I have used 400v 2 amp ones as well on smaller setups. Have a look at one of the recent threads by user Vortex regarding his fan kit, there is another scr part number in there.

Oh yeah Gary, these are ceramic, 6 inch by 2 inch by 1 inch x 2 [==][==]

[ren]

Speed test vid. All five power coils makes a big difference, in startup, top speed, charging and torque. Best to date, 1300rpm @48v 500ma (24 watts).

YouTube - RPM test

[gmeat]

Speed test vid. All five power coils makes a big difference, in startup, top speed, charging and torque. Best to date, 1300rpm @48v 500ma (24 watts).

YouTube - RPM test

Hi Ren,


Great work mate.I enjoy watching your vids.Just love the that amp draw drops down coming up to speed.Continued success


-Gary

[ren]

thanks mate