Fe3O4 Cores - Black Iron Oxide - Magnetite- Knowledge Base

[vidbid]

This thread is dedicated to Fe3O4, otherwise known as black iron oxide or magnetite, for use in cores and other applications, and so if you are so inclined, please post your Fe3O4 experimental results, formulas, manufacturing processes, ideas, concepts, designs, experiment proposals, theories, experiences with, and any other information relating to Fe3O4 and it use in cores or other applications here.

1. Magnetite Cores - YouTube
2. Magnitite Cores 2 - YouTube
3. Fe3O4 Core Without Binder.avi - YouTube

Regards,

Vidbid

[vidbid]

Fe3O4 Flux Guides & Pyrolytic Carbon Composite Counter-Flux Guide

I'm interested in building a device that confines a magnetic field across a conductor in only one direction.

See: http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post251321

I believe that Fe3O4 can be used to fabricate a flux guide to permit a flux direction in one path and pyrolytic carbon to discourage a flux direction in another path.

In order to minimize costs, I believe that the pyrolytic carbon counter-flux guide could be fabricated from a powdered composite with epoxy.

Pyrolytic Carbon Composites: Diamagnetic Graphite Update - YouTube

Source of Pyrolytic Carbon: Panasonic Pyrolitic Graphite Sheets - Another Geek Moment - YouTube

Regards,

Vidbid

[vidbid]

Need to Understand Magnetic Flux in Designing Flux Guides

• Magnetic Flux - YouTube
• Magnetic Flux (part II) - YouTube

Regards,

Vidbid

[Hrothgar]

Woot!

I like this thread already.

The strengths of Fe3O4:
You can form it to custom shapes.
If micronized it should handle hertz that would melt siliconsteel
at a mesh size of 325 should handle nearly 100 kilohertz
CHEAP on ebay I bought 30 pounds of 325 mesh Fe3O4 for $42 that included the shipping

The weaknesses:
Lower saturation with the oxygen beefing up the volume.
Additional loss in density is incurred from the gaps between the particles.
Difficulty in forming with epoxy while maintaining density.
Powdered Fe3O4 is an inhalation hazard so work in a ventilated area Iron Oxide Fe3O4 | Iron Oxide Fe3O4

[Nexgen]

Hey vidbid, just wanted to share a lil finding I had with my ssg core. I collected my own magnetite ,using some neodymium magnets, from my backyard sand. When added to the core of my ssg that had iron nails in it already , the induced voltage rose from 15 mv to 90 mv from the same magnet moving over the core at the same speed each time. Have you heard of john miliweskis experiment with magnetite and ormus?

[Hrothgar]

Why use epoxy?

I realized it would be impractical to use epoxy with my first project so I opted to use paraffin. Having a low viscosity when melted it mixes readily with the powder and if your casting doesn't live up to your expectation you can just heat it up and try again.

[Joit]

I realized it would be impractical to use epoxy with my first project so I opted to use paraffin. Having a low viscosity when melted it mixes readily with the powder and if your casting doesn't live up to your expectation you can just heat it up and try again.

Why impractical with epoxy? Just mix it as thick as you can.
Maybe it would work too if you take a non magentic tube, stamp the magnetite inside and seal the ends with something (ie. mix of epoxy and magentite).

[Berg]

Wax

I realized it would be impractical to use epoxy with my first project so I opted to use paraffin. Having a low viscosity when melted it mixes readily with the powder and if your casting doesn't live up to your expectation you can just heat it up and try again.

That's a great idea.

Using wax instead of epoxy.

Great for experimenting.

Berg

[Hrothgar]

Why?1

Why impractical with epoxy? Just mix it as thick as you can.
Maybe it would work too if you take a non magentic tube, stamp the magnetite inside and seal the ends with something (ie. mix of epoxy and magentite).

1 Because I used 15 pounds of magnetite in my form and epoxy would have been more expensive than an $8 dollar candle.
2 I could heat up the powder and the wax separately pack the powder and let the wax soak in. Just try pouring 30 minute epoxy over packed FE3O4 and see how far it soaks in before it hardens.
3 if I screwed up or just redesigned I could reuse it, vs epoxy which would be one shot and more expensive.
4 Epoxy is fine for a small piece but I can cast it with wax then just coat it with resin or epoxy for the similar effect.
5 You are right about packing into a permanent form, wax and powder formed my caps on my meg in progress.

[gyula]

Hi Hrothgar,

Regarding the core material for coils I found a reference to the use of #7 sized steel shots. These substitute nowadays the age-old lead shots (pellets) used for bird hunting etc. See this link for the reference:

http://open-source-energy.org/index.php?topic=1352.0

In fact, Paul Babcock used such steel shots not only for electromagnets but even for transformer cores too. The good thing is that this material is relatively cheap, and you can easily fill up your individually sized plastic coil bobbins with them, the bad news is that you would have to 'treat' the pellets first by spraying an insulating layer to prevent electrical conduction between any two adjacent pieces of steel pellets. In the link above the use of simply hair spray (or any paint-spray) is suggested. This way the eddy current losses are negligible and remanence is also small (hysteresis losses also low).

Price for a 10 lb (4.45 kg) steel shot (type#7: OD=0.1" i.e. 2.5mm) is about 21-23 USD in the USA (above link includes this USA site: BPI Steel Shot #7 10 lb Bag and this video shows how to make an E core with pellets: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8U7esOiGBZE

You may find such steel shots in hunters shops or in hardware shops where ammunition for bird (mainly duck) hunting is sold. Look for the smallest sized steel pellet type (OD 2.5mm).

Of course your using Fe2O3 powder sounds also good, hopefully the oxide layers insure enough electrical insulation for the powder to keep eddy current losses at a minimum level.

Gyula

[BroMikey]

Molding

Hi Hrothgar,

Regarding the core material for coils I found a reference to the use of #7 sized steel shots. These substitute nowadays the age-old lead shots (pellets) used for bird hunting etc. See this link for the reference:

http://open-source-energy.org/index.php?topic=1352.0

In fact, Paul Babcock used such steel shots not only for electromagnets but even for transformer cores too. The good thing is that this material is relatively cheap, and you can easily fill up your individually sized plastic coil bobbins with them, the bad news is that you would have to 'treat' the pellets first by spraying an insulating layer to prevent electrical conduction between any two adjacent pieces of steel pellets. In the link above the use of simply hair spray (or any paint-spray) is suggested. This way the eddy current losses are negligible and remanence is also small (hysteresis losses also low).

Price for a 10 lb (4.45 kg) steel shot (type#7: OD=0.1" i.e. 2.5mm) is about 21-23 USD in the USA (above link includes this USA site: BPI Steel Shot #7 10 lb Bag and this video shows how to make an E core with pellets: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8U7esOiGBZE

You may find such steel shots in hunters shops or in hardware shops where ammunition for bird (mainly duck) hunting is sold. Look for the smallest sized steel pellet type (OD 2.5mm).

Of course your using Fe2O3 powder sounds also good, hopefully the oxide layers insure enough electrical insulation for the powder to keep eddy current losses at a minimum level.

Gyula

Hello Gyula

Nice going, I did the same thing and just hauled off an tried it a time or two. I found out one very important thing about any resin.

"It must be filled."

I began visualizing an empty room (THE VOID YOU ARE FILLING) the B B's could be considered basket ball size filler. Then other smaller fillers around it such as softballs, tennis balls, golf balls, marbles, on down to sand size particulate.

Of course the void is not an empty room the size found in our homes.

One very important thing about resin, It must be filled because any unfilled resin will shrink dramatically in a short time, say days and will crack.

I use boro-silicate in two forms.

One form is called micro-spheres and the other is the standard cut fiber.

Any fiberglass shop has filling dust.

You did right in packing your B B's tight now do that to the rest of your resins so your piece will not fail structurally.

Also my setup has a pot inside of a pot with oil in between so when I mix resin I heat them evenly plus I have a top and vacuum the air out.

That is not a requirement for your design, just throwing that out there.

I congratulate you in you mold making learning process, just get right in there and make it happen.

A big thumbs up for you speedy core making of any size and type you so desire.

Mike

[gyula]

Hi Mike,

Thanks for your kind words but the video was not made by me... and I am not the person doing the core in the video, sorry.

Regarding the use of resin, I believe it may be justified for a 'final job' to make a durable core but for quick tests or experiments the use of paraffin or wax is cheaper and quicker as Hrothgar wrote above.

What you wrote on your way of making the mold and your findings etc I agree with them.

rgds, Gyula

[wrtner]

I collected my own magnetite ,using some neodymium magnets, from my backyard sand.

This is what is know as "black sand", isn't it?

But Ebay has quite a lot of sand which happens to be black, or coloured black for art purposes which needs to be avoided.

[Hrothgar]

go for the chemical compisistion

This is what is know as "black sand", isn't it?

But Ebay has quite a lot of sand which happens to be black, or coloured black for art purposes which needs to be avoided.

Fe3O4 is used as a black pigment, as titanium oxide is used as a white pigment. The color is inherent to it's composition I check and double check the chemical composition before I buy.

[Hrothgar]

I got concerned

about the painting of the steel shot to prevent eddy currents so I tested some of my Fe3O4 and wax core material and it was non conductive so hurray! I also found this. http://qmp-powders.com/rtecontent/do...6/EER_CG96.pdf

Black sand cores are kind of like a naturally occurring silicon steel, the value of which is a reduced electrical conductivity.